1/9 Italeri Harley WLA 750

[Casper]

I went for a cuppa and let that dry for 30 minutes

[Casper]

slowly worked the leather down the side till it was covered and let it dry. Its a bit plump at the moment like a new pillow but should hopefully flatten out a bit when fixed to the seat frame.

[Casper]

I wanted to do a pin cushion seat (five black buttons) using pins pulled from the top but not sure if it will work now, its a bit small.

mark

[Casper]

Bit of a trim and sanding around the seat frame and that's it for now. I may be able to drop the seat posts another 2mm after the rear wheel guard has been trimmed.

mark

[BigWall]

Brilliant build! It so strange that they would do such a crap job with the chain when the details on the rest of the model are so nice.

[Casper]

Brilliant build! It so strange that they would do such a crap job with the chain when the details on the rest of the model are so nice.

Hi Joe
I know its the worst chain I've seen, I have a monkey 125 with a better chain than this one
I read on another forum that a 1/12 RC211 chain fits and looks pretty good but I'm not sure one chain is long enough and hiroboy only have one in stock. do I don't I

pic of the chain
builder was krow113 on scale motor cars forum

[digger303]

Brilliant build! It so strange that they would do such a crap job with the chain when the details on the rest of the model are so nice.

These are very old molds from 1974 (46yrs ago ) when ESCI was young. It was probably the pinnacle of tech back then and ever since they have just been continually reboxed. They sell and still look good so I guess Italeri won't upgrade them. A bit of a shame, but that's the bean counters attitude.

[Casper]

Brilliant build! It so strange that they would do such a crap job with the chain when the details on the rest of the model are so nice.

These are very old molds from 1974 (46yrs ago ) when ESCI was young. It was probably the pinnacle of tech back then and ever since they have just been continually reboxed. They sell and still look good so I guess Italeri won't upgrade them. A bit of a shame, but that's the bean counters attitude.

My Bentley has bonnet straps from the same material, popular back then as you said especially Tank tracks that needed gluing together. Do they still do that with some tank kits digger

[Casper]

so the 1/12 RC211 chain is 15cm long when fully assembled. I need to get a rough Idea from the Harley if this will fit or not (length) before forking out £33.

[Twokidsnosleep]

This is great
Loving the seat re-make

[digger303]

Brilliant build! It so strange that they would do such a crap job with the chain when the details on the rest of the model are so nice.

These are very old molds from 1974 (46yrs ago ) when ESCI was young. It was probably the pinnacle of tech back then and ever since they have just been continually reboxed. They sell and still look good so I guess Italeri won't upgrade them. A bit of a shame, but that's the bean counters attitude.

My Bentley has bonnet straps from the same material, popular back then as you said especially Tank tracks that needed gluing together. Do they still do that with some tank kits digger

I'v done kits still needing the hot screw driver to melt the tabs together. So yes you still come across them.

[Casper]

I did a few kits with melted tabs a long time ago Do some more recent Tank kits have rubber tracks or are they mostly plastic and cast metal now.

I'v done kits still needing the hot screw driver to melt the tabs together. So yes you still come across them.

[/quote]

[Casper]

I replaced the snapped seat peg on the frame and added a new drilled out post to the seat.
I wont push it all the way home this time . Just a small tube to add to the forward spring loaded rod (for the original seat) I cut short
I need to find some better springs, a little thicker would hopefully hide the pegs.
mark

[digger303]

I did a few kits with melted tabs a long time ago Do some more recent Tank kits have rubber tracks or are they mostly plastic and cast metal now.

I'v done kits still needing the hot screw driver to melt the tabs together. So yes you still come across them.

[/quote]

Seems to be a leaning towards link and length lately which is in styrene( and I like ) or individual plastic links except for Panda which include metal tracks in the box. The manufacturers like HobbyBoss, Academy,Italeri, Tamiya , Dragon and AFV in the newer kits generally speaking use a glue-able softer more flexible track.
Meng, Takom and Rfm use workable individual links. Miniart though uses individual links that are not workable and Trumpeter are known to supply a rubber band and link and length.
Aftermarket tracks are replacement Styrene and metal with both mostly being workable although with the plastic that isn't always so.
This is only a very rough generalization. Stokesy is a more learned builder than I and no doubt could add much more info.

[Casper]

I did a few kits with melted tabs a long time ago Do some more recent Tank kits have rubber tracks or are they mostly plastic and cast metal now.

I'v done kits still needing the hot screw driver to melt the tabs together. So yes you still come across them.

Seems to be a leaning towards link and length lately which is in styrene( and I like ) or individual plastic links except for Panda which include metal tracks in the box. The manufacturers like HobbyBoss, Academy,Italeri, Tamiya , Dragon and AFV in the newer kits generally speaking use a glue-able softer more flexible track.
Meng, Takom and Rfm use workable individual links. Miniart though uses individual links that are not workable and Trumpeter are known to supply a rubber band and link and length.
Aftermarket tracks are replacement Styrene and metal with both mostly being workable although with the plastic that isn't always so.
This is only a very rough generalization. Stokesy is a more learned builder than I and no doubt could add much more info.

[/quote]

wow so many to choose from these days.

[Casper]

Well this kit needs an awful lot of clean up, every part needs looking at. Its covered with seem lines and flash.
I was doing well cleaning up some of the parts needed to progress to paint today but I caught my sleeve on the frame and snapped it

It was a clean break thankfully so a pin was inserted and the parts glued back together. Hopefully you cant see the repair.
I closed up the frame to give it more strength but now have to get a chain
The rear fender has had a little mod to allow it to sit closer to the rear wheel, It can now be cut smaller
mark

[Twokidsnosleep]

This is the kinda stuff that I remember with the Revell Husky
I broke frame and wheels right away...yes I was a kid, but still

Good work on the repair process

[digger303]

So many bits to assemble yet when it happens I expect a wow moment.

[RangerNeil]

I did a few kits with melted tabs a long time ago Do some more recent Tank kits have rubber tracks or are they mostly plastic and cast metal now.

I'v done kits still needing the hot screw driver to melt the tabs together. So yes you still come across them.

Seems to be a leaning towards link and length lately which is in styrene( and I like ) or individual plastic links except for Panda which include metal tracks in the box. The manufacturers like HobbyBoss, Academy,Italeri, Tamiya , Dragon and AFV in the newer kits generally speaking use a glue-able softer more flexible track.
Meng, Takom and Rfm use workable individual links. Miniart though uses individual links that are not workable and Trumpeter are known to supply a rubber band and link and length.
Aftermarket tracks are replacement Styrene and metal with both mostly being workable although with the plastic that isn't always so.
This is only a very rough generalization. Stokesy is a more learned builder than I and no doubt could add much more info.

wow so many to choose from these days.
[/quote]

Must admit - I am a convert to the metal tracks. They are a PITA to clean up but once done they sit just right naturally, no need to worry about getting the sag right.

[digger303]

Seems to be a leaning towards link and length lately which is in styrene( and I like ) or individual plastic links except for Panda which include metal tracks in the box. The manufacturers like HobbyBoss, Academy,Italeri, Tamiya , Dragon and AFV in the newer kits generally speaking use a glue-able softer more flexible track.
Meng, Takom and Rfm use workable individual links. Miniart though uses individual links that are not workable and Trumpeter are known to supply a rubber band and link and length.
Aftermarket tracks are replacement Styrene and metal with both mostly being workable although with the plastic that isn't always so.
This is only a very rough generalization. Stokesy is a more learned builder than I and no doubt could add much more info.

wow so many to choose from these days.

Must admit - I am a convert to the metal tracks. They are a PITA to clean up but once done they sit just right naturally, no need to worry about getting the sag right.
[/quote]

It's only the price that puts me off them. They often cost more than the kits I buy.

[Mumbly]

About the chain, have you looked at the MFH one? Spotmodel have them in stock and they are the right scale. https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info. ... s_id=50237

I am assuming it will be long enough, seeing that most of their kits are of bikes from a similar era to the Harley.

Tony

[Casper]

About the chain, have you looked at the MFH one? Spotmodel have them in stock and they are the right scale. https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info. ... s_id=50237

I am assuming it will be long enough, seeing that most of their kits are of bikes from a similar era to the Harley.

Tony

Hi Tony
thanks for the link. Its only a few pound more than the 1/12 Honda one so worth the extra thanks.

[Casper]

In between doing the garden and emptying the shed to find a strimmer I managed to get some primer on the frame and forks and a few other parts.
It took forever to clean the parts and even now there are still some areas missed and need a tiny bit of filler.
I used Zero light grey primer.
The engine and pipes were primed with Vallejo Panzer grey and the engine had base coats of dull aluminium and flat black. Bolts were added to the heads. I noticed one or two tiny push rod marks in the engine to sand back metallic paint shows any marks
I chopped off the seat fixture point from the top of the tank and filled and sanded before priming, it still needs a tiny bit to smooth it off before the top coat. I have some colours in mind but haven't decided yet
sorry about the pics, shot in full sunlight so a little bright

[Twokidsnosleep]

Boy look at that engine


Awesome

[digger303]

Nice work

[RangerNeil]

<Snipped>

It's only the price that puts me off them. They often cost more than the kits I buy.

They really are worth it Digger - both the T-34 and the Shilka's tracks sit just right without having to try and induce the sag etc. somehow. Try a set and I reckon you will be a convert.

[BigWall]

This is coming along so nicely! I'm going to enjoy watching!

[Casper]

Got some Zero gloss black laid down on the frame and some other parts then half an hour later gave them a couple of coats of Zero clear.
I struggled at first with the black and it was a new unopened bottle, it needed thinning a lot to get it to flow right. The primer on the other hand was a dream to use.
Going to let the frame etc cure a little before adding parts but a dry engine fit wont do any harm. On to some of the small parts now like the fuel lines and decide what colour to do the tank etc The top of the forks has had a 1.6mm Dome nut added but I may paint it chrome, not sure yet. Also the springs were airbrushed with Molotow chrome.
getting there slowly
mark

[digger303]

Those front forks really do look good now they can be seen with the rest of the bike frame. Motor looks smick too.

[BigWall]

It's looking very nice!

[Casper]

Thanks guys
the pipe work in the kit has seam lines down both sides and were oval instead of round and after cleaning them up they didn't look much better so I decided to make some up from 1.4mm brass tube with a 1mm brass rod passed through it then bent it to shape. Cut both ends to leave a couple of mm of the 1mm rod to glue into the small fittings that were drilled to suit. The fittings had a coat of molotow chrome.





mark

[Twokidsnosleep]

Loving how you are working here, just awesome

It is tough to bend without crimps forming, you did well. I try to do the internal rod in the pipe to get a smoother bend too
Lovely

[digger303]

Good scratch building skills are improving the heck out it.

[Casper]

Loving how you are working here, just awesome

It is tough to bend without crimps forming, you did well. I try to do the internal rod in the pipe to get a smoother bend too
Lovely

The Vallejo rim was the perfect forming tool but slowly does it. The lower small bend was not so good and has a small crack but hopefully wont be seen when all is fitted. The two other pipes are a little more tricky and the bendy plastic is handy for fitting, the brass has to be correct when bent so I may use the kit ones to make life easier.
mark

[Casper]

Good scratch building skills are improving the heck out it.

Thanks Digger much appreciated
mark

[Twokidsnosleep]

Loving how you are working here, just awesome

It is tough to bend without crimps forming, you did well. I try to do the internal rod in the pipe to get a smoother bend too
Lovely

The Vallejo rim was the perfect forming tool but slowly does it. The lower small bend was not so good and has a small crack but hopefully wont be seen when all is fitted. The two other pipes are a little more tricky and the bendy plastic is handy for fitting, the brass has to be correct when bent so I may use the kit ones to make life easier.
mark

A little blast from the torch at the bendy spots helps too...

[Casper]

Hi guys a glass of Katy apple Cider and some Stevie Ray Vaughan

Time to shorten the rear mud guard (fender)
I was wondering how I could make the rear end look nice instead of 90 degrees and decided to try cutting the end off the other kit part and gluing it back on again. Little bit of filler and sanding, bit of primer and hopefully it should look ok, if not it can always be changed.




casp

[Casper]

kicks up a little higher than I would have liked a little shorter maybe

[MrBowcat]

Great scratch work, she's a beaut.

[Casper]

Great scratch work, she's a beaut.

Thanks MrB early days but going ok so far.
I came back to the bench an hour later and didn't like the rear end. It sits too high and looks too much like a chop job so I'm going to shorten it and try again. I wanted a little bit of shape to the end instead of a 90 degree cut.

[Casper]

The front wheel guard isn't going to be used and the curve and end design is perfect for what I need so I cut it to size like the kit part and thinned out the end to give a sharper looking edge. its all dry fit at the moment and not in its final position so it should hopefully get nice and close to the rear tyre.

[BigWall]

I agree with you, it could be a bit shorter.

Great detail work. I'm already the world's slowest builder but you and Scott really create the inspiration to add details to a build.

[Mpfiend]

This is coming along very nicely, I like the details you have added.
The jig you are using is interesting also, is it a self made/printed one? or from a vendor?

[Casper]

This is coming along very nicely, I like the details you have added.
The jig you are using is interesting also, is it a self made/printed one? or from a vendor?

thank you
Its my own design, Its a prototype of one I'm working on.

[Casper]

I didn't like the seat I did in black, it was too thick and didn't look right so I'm trying a nice brown leather instead.

[Casper]

[Casper]

Tank and rear wheel guard painted satin black, more to come after a light sanding.

[Mumbly]

Very nice!

[BigWall]

The seat looks great and the rear fender came out nicely as well.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Love that seat!!!!